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Discovering the Secrets of Assam
Posted in Suzy's Tea Travels, Tales From Our Tea Buyers.
After a brief stop back in the UK at Yorkshire Tea HQ, no sooner had I washed my clothes and got a haircut then I was back on a plane heading for India. The peak quality Assam season is here and it only lasts for a short time. Unlike some regions in Africa, such as Kenya, who produce tea all year round, the best Assam tea grows between May and July and I’m here to see the what we call the ‘second flush’ Assam season kick off.
Assam is a crucial part of our blend at Yorkshire Tea, adding strength and body. Rich, malty and deeply flavoured, it's important not only for Yorkshire Tea, but as a tea in its own right, great at breakfast time or any time of day when you need a full tasting cup with good strength.
The region of Assam lies in the North Eastern corner of India bordering Burma and Bhutan and is the route through which the great Brahmaputra River flows down to the Bay of Bengal. Dotted on either side of the great river are tea estates producing great tasting tea. I'm here to spend a month travelling from the North Eastern Tip following the Brahmaputra River south and crossing the river to visit our key Assam tea producers and estates along the way, learning from the experts as I go.
Tea bushes in Assam lie dormant over winter producing no new leaves and tips to process into tea. As springtime sets in, the bushes re-awaken and new tea leaves are plucked and processed into ‘first flush’ tea. After those initial leaves are plucked, the bushes then take a few weeks to recoup, gathering energy and nutrients from the soil ready to produce the ‘second flush’ new leaves. Tea produced from this period is simply unique and generates unrivalled flavour and character in the tea.
At Taylors, we have special relationships with some of the very best gardens in Assam and arguably the world. These experts are kindly giving me a taste of how they make their magic. The processing of the leaf in Assam is also unique. The science of the process remains the same around the world (the leaf needs to be withered, oxidised and dried) but the process here is quite bespoke and requires much attention to detail. Many top producers use traditional methods of manufacture that, though not the most state of the art, produce amazing character in the tea. Each factory has a chief tea maker, known as the Head Tea House. Many have been making tea for 20 to 30 years - and really, what they don’t know about Assam tea manufacture is probably not worth knowing!
As the season sets in, they apply their expertise on a daily basis, adjusting withering or oxidation times according to the climate and the state of the green leaf - not just of that particular day, but for each particular hour. Once the rolled and oxidised leaves have been dried, sorting takes place into various grades. For loose leaf grades, this sorting is all done by hand, requiring great skill and concentration, usually by a team of eagle-eyed ladies.
The blackish tea leaves contain amber flecks - these are the tips of the bush and lead to great flavour in the cup. A truly impressive process to witness!
Look out for more news soon!
Suzy